American Beauty

1. Start at the base of the big corner and climb finger and hand cracks on the right wall to a small overhang. Belay on a sloping stance just above. 5.7-, 120'.

2. Continue up the corner a short way to an obvious rightward finger traverse into a clean, vertical crack. Follow this (about 80' of 4-5" crack) to a belay alcove. 5.7, 130'.

3. Climb the broken ridge, mostly easy but with a couple of short 5.7 sections, until it's obvious to unrope and scramble up to the Knife Edge. 5.7-, 150'.

Just left of the upper pitches of the Cilley-Barber is a clean right-facing corner system. Approach as for the left side of the Armadillo, then traverse easily left on the bushy ledge to a slightly nervy step across the Cilley-Barber; the start of the route is just beyond. Hike off.

Standard rack, plus extra 4-5" gear for the second pitch.