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Peak Mountain 3

Checkerboard Crack

FA [S. Kimball & M. Neri, 1976]
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Description

Like its neighbor, Ziggie's Day Out, this climb requires great skill in placing protection, and it seems like you need TCUs for most of it. Nut placements can be had, but are very tricky. The left side of Checkerboard Rock is broken by a ledge 2/3 of the way up. Two prominent parallel cracks reach it; the left one (which continues beyond the ledge) is Checkerboard Crack. To reach it, lieback a shallow dihedral just right of a large block (thin 5.9-or, traverse in from above the block). Make some face moves to gain the flared crack, and climb it to the ledge (sustained 5.9/5.10). Pitch 2 is short and continues up the crack to the top.

Protection

Bring a double set of TCUs.