- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a variation of the route Escalation. Climb the narrow face to the left of the starting crack of Escalation all the way up and past the two tree ledges mentioned in the route description for Escalation. At the 3/4 mark and coming off the second Escalation ledge climb the narrow little and isolated sub buttress on the left to its top which plants you on ledges roughly level with the base of the Derek Small's Crack route to the right. Cruxes are the first 20 feet and the last 25 feet with a lot of 5.7 edges and ledges in between. The top 25 feet of climbing is a lot of fun with opposition pulls inward from both sides of the little buttress, cool in-cuts and slopers in between for the feet, crimps and sidepulls for the hands, and finally barndoor moves while slapping for open hand slopers on the left arête.
Location
Written up as variation of the route Escalation in Swartling and Mayer's 3d edition guidebook - Page 127 Route 134 variation rated 5.9??.
Protection
TR so far.
Routes in 11: Bill's Buttress
- 1Sour Queen5.10b/cTr