- Edit (TBD)
Description
This climb wanders up the wall with several good rests and is mostly 5.6 or 5.7, there is a crux near the bottom protected by a bolt and an interesting move up top. Start up a flake to a small ledge then head up 2 cracks before braking right under the roof, there is a chain anchor you can't see frome the base. Most of the loose rocks have been pulled off and much moss was scrubbed but it is still dirty as of 2018 but makes a nice warm up for the area, the top moves are interesting and fun
Location
Approach for the lower cheeks, but before clay there is a trail that breaks right and slightly downhill, this climb starts 40 ft right of the obvious chimney Slug Life Look for the bolt protecting the hollow flake. This climb is on the tier just below the normal lower Cheeks area and is basically just beneath Fairies Wear Boots
Protection
Standard Index rack, might be able to use a 4 at the top, you'll wan't at least a 3, couple hand sized pieces and maybe something as small as a green c3 (.2) or some nuts.