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Description
This is an outstanding route that is usually less crowded than other routes in RR of the same quality. It is possible to climb only the crux first pitch and rap with double ropes but the whole climb is fun and interesting; especially the fourth.
Y2K is located on the north-east corner of the Mescalito. On the approach, spot a pinkish dihedral that has a sharp curve to the right in it. To the right of this dihedral is a bolted face that leads to a roof. This is the route.
P1: 5.10a, 150' Begin atop a large boulder leaning against the face. Climb up past several bolts to the overhang. Turn the overhang (crux) and continue up the crack and face to a bolted belay. The crux is very well protected with a bolt and you can place a good cam just above the bolt.
P2: 5.8, 160' Climb straight up the face to a huge ledge and a double-bolt belay. There are two ledges here; one stepped above the other.
P3: 5.5, 50' Traverse straight right to a nice belay alcove at the base of a right facing corner and build a gear anchor.
P4: 5.9, 150' Climb the stellar right facing corner. Near the top, the crack goes from thin to non-existent and pro becomes a bit tricky. Step left onto a ledge and belay from the anchors. I'd give this pitch a PG rating but it is superb.
Decent: 3 double rope raps.
Protection
Lots of bolts but bring a rack of gear from tiny to about 2".
Routes in East Face
- 15Y2K5.10aTrad