Avalauncher

10a slab. A bit more variety and adventure than some of the other more straightforward routes nearby. Challenge level seems to jump up a bit in comparison to nearby 5.9’s.

NOTE: Height dependent rating*

Difficulty of this climb can feel significantly harder than nearby 5.9’s in the crux areas, especially for climbers 5’5” and under.

Plenty of features below, effortless clips, perhaps 5.7/8 in the beginning. Then starkly contrasted with slabby, no-hands, vertical moves more indicative of its rating at 8th and final bolts. Enjoy that left arete at the 9th clip!

• Clipping the last bolt is definitely height dependent in difficulty. Reachy clip away from secure ledge (5’6” ish and up), may require stepping up onto slab with one foot; or move up onto much less secure slabby feet, minimal hands, then clip left (5’5” and under). Moves to the ledge are secure and traverse Right, but set up for a big potential angled fall which makes the clip much headier, especially for the 5'5" beta. Unless you're into that kind of thing, consider using a draw with a long stiff sling to increase reach, or use a nut tool to steady the draw and increase your reach.

The trade off for the sketchy short-person clip is that it protects quite well at the final moves which are the thinnest. Hands are virtually insignificant here.

NOTE: Final move

There is not a jug or more secure stance if you climb higher than the slabby feet just before the anchor. Work feet high (esp short people) on slabby feet and reach the mussy hooks at the anchor. Clip high and the climb is finished.

11 bolts to mussy hooks at the anchor