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Peak Mountain 3

Lizzie Borden

FA Alan Bartlett, Shari Schubot 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Just barely left of

Hatchet Crack

is

Lizzie Borden

. It basically climbs the crack/groove system on the left as it angles to the rappel ledge of

Schoolroom

rappel. It starts the same as

Hatchet Crack

, and then diverges along a fun ramp. It is very tempting to clip a bolt or two from

The Rumba

as they are in your face. Climbing stays consistent through the bottom two-thirds. Fun crack and groove work with some face climbing thrown in. 2 warnings: Not a lead for a 5.9 leader, and don't pass up gear opp's on the consistent part (bottom 2/3's).

Protection

There are chains at the top (Schoolroom rappel), but gear is needed for the route. Pretty standard rack, but bring 1 large cam. The "Book" says a 4 inch. That didn't quite suffice. I shoulda brought a 5 inch, cause my 4" cam popped when my second fell below it. I was darn sure it wouldn't hold. Oh well. A couple of runners helped also.