Broken Dreams

Pitch 1:

Gingerly make your way up the blocky face to a lone bolt about 30' up, then climb straight up toward a ledge (below a roof) passing the occasional placement. The rock is a lot more solid than it looks but quite slippery due to a layer of lichen. It's probably a good idea to test holds before yarding on them as you're usually a long ways above your gear. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a spacious ledge.

Pitch 2:

Head out left on a brushy ledge to gain a broken crack system (the book shows another variation right) and follow it as it diagonals up and right towards the top of the buttress. Beware of a lot of very loose rock, especially when you traverse back over your belayer.

Build a trad belay in the great cracks that split the low angle ridge up top.

The route is located about 100' before the chokestone on the lower section of the

Lonely Challenge Wall.

Look for a single bolt about 30' up a blocky mossy looking face.

The standard descent is apparently on the

Rush Wall

side (west face of

Standard Ridge

). We followed the wide low angle ridge up to a cleft where it looked possible to downclimb to the base of the

Rush Wall

and from there walk back across the gap to the packs (bring hiking shoes).

Instead we kept going along the

Standard Ridge

route and reached the bolted anchors for the upper routes of

Lonely Challenge

.

A 70m barely makes it to the base of the bolted lines and it's then possible to downclimb the chokestone or scramble around it on some dirty ledges. Two ropes would allow you to rap to the base of the chokestone, avoiding some scary billygoating.

Italic Text

Standard rack up to a #3.

Don't bother bringing anything big on the 1st pitch, besides the bolt it takes mostly micro cams.

Small to hand-size cams for the cracks on the second pitch and keep a #2 and a #3 for the belay.