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Peak Mountain 3

Balance

FA Bob & Carrie Robertson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Balance is located at the highest point of the trail that goes along the base of the Pinnacle. There are also some nice rocks to sit on just out from the base of the cliff. Locate an upside-down crescent that has 3 bolts rising above it to the anchors. Just to the left is a crack with a piton. To the right is a very steep, but short 3 bolt route that has two orange anchors on the slab next to the second bolt on Balance. Balance is primarily a lower angled slab.

With a reach, grab good incuts on the crescent, and pull up onto it. Clip the first bolt, and head right to get up on the slab. Follow the next two bolts to a slightly runout section further up the slab, then shift left and climb the well-protected, vertical wall on the climber's left which takes you to a brief break and then finishes on a final vertical section ending at a pair of welded coldshuts.

Eds.

the FAs felt this route was 5.9 if you follow the bolts.

Protection

Maybe you'll need 10 quickdraws and a 60m rope plus gear for the coldshut anchors, which are slightly offset and require equalization.