- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start by climbing a wide crack up the left side of 15 foot pillar. Move left past 2nd bolt and up the face to a shallow, horizontal break & 3rd bolt. The crux traverses right onto the blunt arete via sidepulls & poor footholds. Continue up the left side of the arete with another 5.12 crux. Move left at 5th bolt under a small bulge to a sharp arete. A final 5.12 section leads up this arete to jugs above the last bolt. Traverse right and reach down to the anchor.
I bolted this route in January 2010 and had climbed it (A0) hanging on thre 3rd bolt 5 times prior to the successful redpoint ascent. The crux is very difficult, and there was one move I could barely do. Finally I tried a different smear for my left foot and a tiny piece of rock broke off leaving a small edge. This foothold made all the difference. This climb took me a lot of effort. I believe it is one of the two hardest climbs on North Table Mountain. I would like to thank everyone who belayed me on numerous attempts.
Location
This climb is between "
Tiger Shark
" & "
S.S. Minnow
". It ascends the phallus-shaped formation capped with a large head.
Protection
7 bolts / 2 Fixe rings.
Routes in The East Quarry
- 37Tiger's Woody5.13aSport