Devoid

Devoid is an amazing route that lies within the wild chimneys between Chey Desa Tsay and Rockfellow Dome. It is a tremendously adventurous line with demanding mental cruxes, but the experience of this classic is truly magnificent. The X rating is for pitch 1 - make absolutely sure you are a solid chimney climber as there is no room for error.

The directions below assume you are facing Chey Desa Tsay at the start.

Pitch 1 (5.8 X): From the base, chimney up and right about 90' to a bolt. Clip it and continue up about 40' to a second bolt. The anchor is about 20' higher.

Pitch 2 (5.10 R): This pitch has wide stemming and chimney climbing between Rockfellow and Chey Desa Tsay. On the FA Steve Grossman led a portion of this pitch with foot-shoulder technique!

Traverse directly right 15', then work up about 30' to a crack on the CDT side. Protect, turn around, and make a big committing move on the Rockfellow face. From here climb up and left 40' to two bolts. We belayed here. The bolts are 10' apart so it is necessary to use a self-equalizing anchor.

Pitch 3: (5.10 PG13/R): Move back on to Chey Desa Tsay (jaw-dropping exposure) and up on to an angled ledge. Tricky face climbing leads up to a large ledge. From here continue up and left to a point just below the summit and belay.

The climb starts from the inner passage. Start at its north end. Pass by the chockstone wedged 3' from the bottom of the passageway. Continue about 50' past the chockstone and you will be at the base of the route. Neither the bolts nor the anchor are visible from the base.

A very good assortment of nuts. A single set of cams to 3.5" with a few extra from .4" to .6".