The Wasteland

A great climb. Make sure you are comfortable slinging chickenheads & plates and belaying off of slung chickenheads before attempting this route.

P1: Climb the face up and left to a small arch (usually with webbing on it), sling the arch, then head up and right to a belay ledge. P2: Traverse right to the crack/groove and follow it up to a nice belay below short chimney. P3: Climb up and left through the chimney and exit left on top of the small tower, then step across chimney to the main wall. Climb great chickenheads and plates on the right side the corner and on the arete past a short headwall then belay on thin cracks & chickenheads just below the big roof. P4: Make a loooong traverse right on chickenheads until just past the big roof, then make a few 5.8 moves up over a bulge and belay off of chickenheads and chocks, or traverse farther right and belay off of a 2 bolt anchor, which gets you more rope-drag on pitches 4 & 5. Note: The bolted anchor makes an adequate emergency escape anchor as it is possible to rappel with 2 60m ropes, but you will need to extend the anchor as much as possible and will still just BARELY reach the ground. A 60m + 70m is probably ok. P5: Make a long traverse back left just past the far left side of the upper headwall, then climb up chickenheads past a small bulge to a belay under an arete. Watch for rope-drag on this pitch. P6: Follow the arete up past a crack and up a low-angle slab with a couple bolts to summit.

To descend, rappel off the NW side and scramble down west, then 5 single-rope rappels and some downclimbing down the west flank gets you back to the base.

Natural pro, with a couple of bolts. Bring a standard rack to a #2 or #3 Camalot and plenty of nuts/hexes, plus extra slings for slinging chickenheads & plates. Make sure to use long runners on the traversing pitches to minimize rope drag.