- Edit (TBD)
Description
A must-do classic right around the corner from
Pratt's Crack
. Follows a huge, clean-cut dihedral starting from the top of a 4th class ramp.
An initial tricky finger crack on the right face leads to a long section of hand jams in the corner. A burly lieback up a brief overhanging offwidth leads to a final short chimney. Traverse right, passing the anchors for Queen of Heartbreaks to the anchors for Sheila (directly above the chimney).
Location
Pratt's Crack area, on the right side. A large corner whose right face is split by a large roof 1/3 of the way up.
Scramble up 50' of 4th class to a bolted belay below a tree and the start of the real climbing.
Protection
Cams from micro to 3". Optional #6 for upper lieback.
Rappel with 2 ropes. A single 80m just reaches with stretch, or might require a few feet of 4th class downclimbing.