Wally's Return

A few face moves gets you into the dihedral. Move up and left past some old tattered slings and a bail anchor w/ rap ring. From here, climb the flaring, intermittent cracks (crux, offset cams great here, reduces rating to PG) for about 15' to easier climbing. Once to the large bush, move right and up to the top. Gear anchor.

Descent:

Rappel "Expectations" route 60' to the west. 70m rope gets you down in one. If you have a shorter rope, there are midway rappel chains. Or walk off east.

Note:

If you climb just the bottom half, and TR or rappel from the mess of webbing and rap rings, it is a 3 star 5.7.

Start about 30' right of the large left hand chimney/water trough. Looking up, you will be under a large right facing dihedral with a little bush in it.

Gear to 3". Offset stoppers and cams useful.