We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Mox Me

FA May 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first lead route established on this cliff. The base of the slab has a class 3 scramble to a ledge 40' up, which begins at a boulder pile below a notch. This route begins about 20' left of the boulders, just right of a right-facing open book that begins 6' up a slab and terminates another 7' higher, at an overhang. It is possible to use the class 2 scramble to climber's right to avoid the first pitch.

P1: Step left across the slab to the open book, go up it to its end and climb through the overhang via a vertical crack, wrestling a tree at the edge of a sloping, stepped tree ledge. Move up the ledge to the highest step, below the main face. 50'

P2: Step up right-facing corner to a crack veering right. Take it to its end, at a small overhang. Traverse right 6' and climb through the overhang, reaching a left-rising ramp leading to a vertical crack. Climb to and up the crack, then climb easy runout slab directly up to the top.

Location

Near skier's left on top of this slab is a right-facing corner system running down the slope about 30'. The route climbs up to this point from below. At the base, look for a slab with a right-facing open book/corner beginning 6' up and ending another 7' higher, at an overhang. This is a bit climber's left of the boulder pile scramble start to a ledge about 40' up the cliff, and 75' left of the class 3 scramble to the top.

Protection

Standard Adk Trad Rack, double #2 and #3 C4s or similar. No bolts. Either make a gear anchor in the overlap and right-facing corner at the top, or climb all the way to a usable tree.