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Peak Mountain 3

Forest Circus Fiasco

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Description

A fun, but frustratingly inconsistent route with an impressive, strong finishing move. Entertaining 5.8-level climbing up a very blocky/ledgy face through 6 bolts, followed by a crux that feels like a completely different climb.

The last couple moves of this route are on a severely overhanging bulge at the top. It requires the use of small crimps, a couple of slopers, a throw, and an awesome pull-up/mantle, with no foot holds. The single hardest move at the crag (?).

The crux can be circumvented by climbing the dirty crack to the left and traversing back onto the face of the bulge at the anchors (probably 5.9 or 5.10a climbing). Not recommended for fun factor, but a good way to get your gear back if you can't make the crux move on the face.

Location

Five feet right of "Bat Stupor," third to last route along the approach path. Look for a short, vertical very blocky face with a couple of large, overhanging boulders at the top. "Forest Circus Fiasco" is the right bolt line on this face.

Protection

Quickdraws. Bolted anchor.