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Peak Mountain 3

Standard Route/Lower Tangen Tower

FA Gerry Roach and Barb Inyan, 1984??
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Lower Tangen Tower is the overhanging rock you pass under on the Royal Arch Trail after passing the base of the Fourth Flatiron. Despite being near this major trail, the rock sees few ascents as it is not easy to solo up and down.

The first few moves are the crux, which is an awkward offwidth, although you may be able to find a more elegant way to do it. Soon the difficulty eases to 4th class. You can belay on a ledge at 60', or continue left up a ramp and continue to the summit. The entire climb can be done in one 120' pitch.

To descend, rap 40' west into the notch between the Tangen Towers. On rappel you may notice 2 bolts of some unknown route on the overhanging West Face of the Lower Tower.

Location

Locate a wide flaring crack on the far west side of the South Face of the Lower Tangen Tower. This crack is the leftmost of two cracks and is only about 100' off the Royal Arch Trail.

Protection

Light rack to #3 Camalot.