Guide's Route

From the base of Turret Dome, 0.25 miles west of the picnic area, head along the river and then scramble up to the base of this climb about another 0.25 miles. It starts in a slight ravine with a large fallen tree on the rocks southwest face well west of Schooldaze's giant arch formation. On its right are four unnamed sport routes (5.8ish) that are fun if you are waiting for the route to clear.

Pitch 1: Climbs a 5.6 hand and finger crack past several rock horns up and over a slight lip protected by a single pin. From there, it follows the multi-cracked corner up to a good belay ledge directly under the climbs overhang.

Pitch 2: Climbs up from the belay stance to under the overhang and then steps right onto bathtubs. The next belay is a short climb up the tubs to a two pin anchor in the rock over the overhang on the left side of the tubs.

Pitch 3: Climb right from the belay stance over the tubs to an almost flat boudler. Climb over the corner to the right of the rock which is protected by a single pin. From there, it is a zigzag path up to the summit over 5.5-5.6 rock and flakes. Rope drag at the top is a lot less if you sling every piece you place.

Downclimb to the left off the summit down 5.4 rock. When you get down the rock to pine forest go down and right over loose ground to get to the picnic area.

A standard rack with 2-3 extra 24" slings for the horns on the first pitch and to relieve rope drag on the last pitch. This route also eats up large hexes.