- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route follows the southern ridge slabs up to the summit. Watch for loose rock.
Pitch 1 5.2 - Start at a small pine tree, climb slabs for 120 feet to a small notched point with a ledge at its trough. The rope drag will be heinous by now, belay with small cams.
Pitch 2. 5.3 -Ascend slabs 60 feet to sub-summit, to a single bolt, sling a chert knob if desired. Rappel 15 feet off sub-summit to a large sloping ledge. Traverse to the base of the final headwall.
Pitch 3 5.6 - Follow upward rising depression to sharp slabs past two rivets,115 feet. Top out at 2 bolt anchor. Traverse to the true summit and a taste of the glory.
Descent. 2 Raps
Rappel from pitch 3 anchors to the bottom of the sub-summit notch (near the end of pitch two) 115 feet. Work your way down the gully to climbers left for 20 feet or so to a single bolt on down climbers left. Rappel 115' through some bushes till you can see you can downclimb the rest.
Location
The route is located at the farthest southern end of the tower next to a brushy flat spot.
Protection
Single rack of cams to 2.5in with an emphasis those of the micro variety should do for most folks. Bring #2 (2x) wire rivet hangars or small wired nuts for two rivets mid-pitch three. 70 m rope.
Routes in The Saddle's Horn
- 1Howe The West Was Won5.6Alpine · Trad