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Peak Mountain 3

Wounded Knee

FA Reveley & Erickson, 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a solid handcrack through a 6' roof. It is not extraordinary in and of itself, but when combined with

Divine Wind

and

Bearcat

, this pitch culminates "

The Naked Edge

of Boulder Canyon", a link up of three 5.11 pitches each of which is a completely different style of climbing.

Start at the end of the crux pitch of

Bearcat

. Climb a few feet of uninpsiring rock to get to the crux. The crux may be figuring out how to place the #3 Camalot without blocking the best jam. Once you've taken care of this, head horizontally out the crack on good hand jams. Turn the lip and you're done.

BETA ALERT: don't place another piece after the #3 until you've gotten a hand past the lip.

Descent: There are no fixed anchors. Either do the 3rd class walk off or reverse (down aid) the pitch which is pretty easy since it's so short.

Protection

A couple of small nuts and cams (e.g. green & yellow Alien) for the start, 2, 3 (key piece) and 3.5 Camalot for the crack. Medium nuts useful for the anchor.