Smokin' J's

This shares the start with

Smokin' Stems

and busts out right onto a wild traverse! Tip toe across the exposed roof, and then go straight up through some classic Piedra jugs. The crux is 11 b/c in the crack, and the face goes at sustained 10b/c.

Be aware that this route is a lil spicy by nature, and those not comfortable at the grade should take caution. I didn't want to crowd the existing climb

Black Magic Spell

with bolts, so there is a slight runout on easy terrain getting to the second bolt. The runout looks a lot worse from the ground compared to how it climbs.

It is best cleaned by following. Followers, watch the second bolt swing.

Right before the Hops Wall on your right, you will see the huge roof and the perfect corner crack. Smokin' J's is the route farthest to the right on the headwall above the roof. It starts in the obvious crack with the piton at 8' (

Smokin Stems

).

Clip the piton, cams 0.75-2, 7 bolts, and Mussy hook anchors.