Last Stand of the Trad Lands

Stem your way up the chimney while sharing a couple holds with the "

BM Route

." As the chimney narrows, you'll find fun stemming footwork and shifting balance until you are in the choke point. Either climb directly up the nice open book with sparse protection or bail out left onto the mini-arete, and climb up to the final chimney that steepens before the top. Either clip the "

BM Route

" bolts or search around for somewhere to build a trad anchor.

Beware of loose rock. There are a couple of chockstones that could move in the choke and some cross up high.

This is the obvious chimney a couple feet left of the "BM Route" bolt line.

A standard rack, but it favors gear 0.2-0.75.