Ice Cream Plant

Start from a pile of massive blocks, following a tips crack to a ledge. Proceed up a short section of hands in a corner to a large and precarious-looking block*, and clip the bolt to its right. Placing gear behind this block is unnecessary, and might be a bad idea. From atop the block, follow wandering finger cracks through fun sequences to the anchors. There are two obvious options in the upper third of the route--of similar quality and difficulty. Follow your rumen and practice selective grazing. This route was named in honor of the esteemed range ecologist Scott Woodall, who applies the term to desirable forage species.

*We spent a good deal of time yarding on this boulder with a wrecking bar and it wouldn't dislodge. We even hauled a scissor jack out, but it didn't fit behind the block. If any of you engineer types can devise a way of prying on it from below while staying out of the fall-line, feel free to try, and pull the bolt if you succeed.

The next route right of Chocolate Factory. This is the last dihedral with "solid" rock from bottom to top. Look for an intimidating block (shaped like and abstract of a heart or an elephant's head) with a bolt to its right. Belay on a pile of massive, loose blocks that threatens to swallow loose gear/pets/children.

Doubles from 00 through 0.5, one 0.75, and a #1. A third red C3 or blue TCU might be nice. There are also good placements for stoppers. Add a few quickdraws, and runners to taste. I managed to place a 000 C3, but it wasn't crucial. 2-bolt anchor.