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Peak Mountain 3

Pop Bottle

FA Gene Drake, Mark Haymond, Larry Morris
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An easy 5.7 climb with the crux coming early in the first pitch at the first bulge. The entire first pitch is easily and well protected. While it probably can be done gracefully, most first timers on this route flop over this bulge. A second bulge comes shortly after the first. For the second bulge transition onto the small ledge to the left and climb around it. The rest of the first pitch is an easy 5.6 climb to a large ledge at the end of the first pitch. There is a walk off the to left down and across exposed low angle slabs at this point if you choose to do so.

The second pitch is belayed from this ledge, but there are not a lot of decent cracks for protection. The second pitch is relatively easy, though the exposure on the first move and some run out add excitement. Climb up the corner/arête on the far right side of the ledge past a protection bolt. Stay slightly to the left as you ascend or you will find yourself off route and into harder climbing. The second pitch ends at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch three is basically a scramble to the top. It’s not very exciting, but must be done if you want to reach the top. Walk off to the left.

Location

The eastern most climb on the East Wall, look for the light colored patch of rock about one half of the way up the first pitch. (see photo)

Protection

Small to medium cams and nuts. 2 Bolt anchor at the end of second pitch