Friends and Lovers

Swain gives this climb a 'R' rating for the first pitch. I found enough gear to make this a reasonable lead.

Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.

Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.

P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's Return bolt anchors. A fun pitch. 5.9, 100'.

P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)

Rappel over Snooky's Return.

Located 20' right of Snooky's Return and 35' left of Minty.

Standard Rack, with extra thin gear...