- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an absolute sleeper gem of a route that has so much going for it.
The route proper starts on an excellent refrigerated shady ledge 30' off the ground in the back of a chimney between a detached block and the wall proper.
To reach this ledge start in the big 30' tall chimney. Either solo the chimney (5.5) or after 10 feet traverse left on a small ledge across the block to a 20' crack that takes #3-#5 to the belay ledge (probably 5.10). If you solo the chimney but your partner wants a belay you'll want a #5 and a sling for a directional.
The route proper is a beautiful 70' splitter that goes from BD .5s to 1s. The grade however is moderated by some face holds and stemming where the crack is hardest.
There is a faded hard to read plaque on the ground.
Location
1 minute left of Fingers on a Landscape, 5-6 minutes past Layaway Plan.
Protection
In camalots:
1 each .3, .4, .5
2-3 .75s (black metolius is better up top)
6-7 1s
Good anchor
Lower each other all the down the chimney when you're done. 70m works, 60m probably does too but not sure.