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Peak Mountain 3

White Cross aka Titus Groan

FA Layton Kor and Harvey Carter, FFA: Chas McQuarie and Joe Kahein
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: stellar. Climb big hands to fingers. This takes you to the big ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitche 2 is the crux offwidth pitch where you go around several bulges. There are plenty of face holds and features, so one doesn't have to do any real offwidth climbing. Bring lots of slings, stretch the second pitch a full 60 meters to gain a ledge (past the squeeze which is slick!), and belay.

Pitch 3: the last pitch is mostly easy terrain, but watch out for extremely loose rock on the last hundred feet.

Location

The route starts up the right side of a giant A on the west, outside of the gully. To your left it a left trending crack. You can either do the right of left side of the A. The right is 10- and the left 11ish fingers.

Protection

A set of nuts, doubles from #0.3-4 Camalots, one #5, and two ropes for the rap. Rap Doppelganger for the fastest and safest decent. This is to the right of the topout of Titus Groan below a large, dead pinyon pine.