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Peak Mountain 3

The Gutter High

FA Paul Glover, John Dunne
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the upper line on the gutter traverse. It's easier, less direct, and slightly headier than the V7 traverse.

The route description per Erik N's comments:

1st third - stay high, using mostly holds on the vertical face all the way to the gap. You might use a hold or two at the upper lip as well.

2nd third - from the gap, the height of the wall from the lower lip to the upper lip increases to about ten feet tall. Continue up and leftward near the lip for about ten feet. At about the middle of the height of the wall, leave the lip, and span leftward four feet to a good hold. This is the crux. This is also the most exposed move of the route, as most people cannot smoothly step back onto the slab from here. Continue on pockets and slopers to the second gap.

The final third - about ten feet above the second gap the rock bulges southward. Use this bulge for your feet, and grab holds near the lip. Continue to the tree, and finish with a mantel.

Location

From the turning point, walk uphill about 300 meters.  Cross a gully, and look for the obvious, upward angling traverse.