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Peak Mountain 3

Agustina's Tower

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Description

With this one you get pretty much 250' of climbing the wider sizes, but it's good fun climbing for the most part.

P1: Start below the large chimney/gash on the north (maybe nw?) face. Some dirty chinle climbing past an awkward move gets you to the wingate. A fun steep OW on good rock is the rest of this short pitch. 5.10, belay off of finger sized gear once at a stance inside the chimney.

P2: Go to the back of the chimney and squirm on up. A thin crack can be used for protection. It starts as tips, and gradually widens to OW. Once you start narrowing the top of the chimney, stem deeper into it until you can move up to a nice ledge below Agustina's Tower. Belay off of #5 cams. 5.7

P3: Move the belay up about 30' until below the obvious, dirty OW. Starts off dirty, but gets better. At the start you can protect with some hand and fist sized pieces, save the big gear for higher up. Once above the junky section, the route only protects with tipped out #6's, big bros, or your best option, a 9" valley giant to bump up with you as you go. 5.10

From the top, do a double rope rap to the top of P2. Then hop over the chimney you climbed up for P2 and find another anchor. From this anchor a single rope rappel gets you to the ground.

Location

Agustina's is located directly in front of Eagle Tower.

Protection

A single rack from small to big, then the extra big. A 9" valley giant was key, a #4 bigbro, and several #6 cams. 2 60 m ropes