East Face Direct

This route takes a line between the

Keith-Eddy East Face

and the

Beyer East Face II

, and shares the same approach as described by the Ortenburger and Jackson guidebook. About 10m left of the double cracks marking the start of

Beyer II

is a right-facing dihedral choked with large blocks. Third class to a good belay ledge on one of the blocks in the dihedral.

(1) The first pitch is intricate. From the ledge, step down and right to a weakness that turns into an easy shallow corner after several moves. A few meters up the corner step out right to an incipient crack that is used to gain an obvious flake further to the right. The flake is just below the long, black horizontal break/roof system stretching from the base of the

Eddy-Keith

dihedral across the face to the initial

Beyer II

dihedral. Make a few moves right along the top of the flake and turn the bulge above the horizontal break to a small left-facing dihedral. Work right and climb up another small corner to a small roof, which is skirted on the left into a shallow left-facing corner. Continue up the corner until possible to traverse right and up into another shallow left-facing corner. Climb this corner and weakness above for ~12m to a small but secure belay alcove. (55m).

(2) Ascend an obvious finger crack above and left of the belay to its end, then step left (past an obvious protruding rock) to another crack that ends on a ledge. Make a few moves left, surmount a bulge, then continue straight up easy ground to a belay on broken ledges. (60m).

(3) Climb straight up the slab above, aiming for the left end of a large rectangular roof on top of the slab. Belay from a sloping ledge next to the roof. (65m).

(4) Ascend the easy left-facing dihedral above, which changes to a steeper right-facing corner. Climb the hand crack in the corner to its end on top of a large flake, then traverse right and up for about 5m to an intermittent crack system. Belay 15m higher at a small stance. (52m).

(5) Continue up the crack system until it arches right and ends under short headwall. Step right and climb the headwall to easy climbing ending on top of the initial

Underhill

Buttress. (35m). (6) Join the

Underhill Ridge

or its variations to the summit. (~300m).

The Ortenburger and Jackson guidebook provides direction to get there and get off. Beware of the photodiagram on plate 43; Beyer II appears misdrawn.

One set of brass nuts and wired stoppers; double cams from 3/8 to 3 inch (one 3 1/2" cam may be helpful); many slings; 60m rope. No bolts or other fixed gear.